Leaking Shower Pan Liner- Anderson South Carolina

I received a call from a local Anderson, South Carolina builder to test and if need be, replace a leaking shower pan liner in a home that was built in the early 70's.



In this photo, you see the shower in much the same condition as I found it. Several issues are immediately apparent; the cracked shower floor mud and curb is perhaps the most obvious. This tells me that there was significant structural stress at this point and/or the shower floor mud bed was installed too thin for this type of wood framed structure.





The original wall tile is what was known as 4x4 Florida Tile Bright Glaze, Gold Dust 4x4. The shower floor is what was known as Florida Tile Gold Dust Crystal, Hexagon 4x4. Though Florida Tile is still in business, they no longer produce these tiles. Notice the Gold Dust ceramic towel bar post? Neat-o, or something






The tile trim shape you see here, is what is known in the industry as a A-4200 mud cap. It's presence in a shower is usually a clue that the type of tile substrate utilized in the original installation was either a double drywall layer (as seen in the Leaking Shower post) or wire lathe and cement. In the case of this shower, it's the latter.





Before an accurate diagnosis of a leaking shower pan liner can be made, it needs to be tested. Fortunately, in the case of this project, I had access to the crawl space under the house. Spiders, and various critters are abundant in this area, but having this access is truly essential in regard to ascertaining the potential associated structural rot, plumbing leaks and assorted electrical problems. In this image we see the result of the shower pan test; it leaked.





If the water on the ground beneath this shower in the photo above wasn't enough proof, this lovely "stalagtite" mineral deposit that has been forming on the shower floor drain for years is a clear indication the pan needs to be replaced. If you consider how many years it takes for this deposit to grow to this size, it's nothing short of impressive that the associated rot is not worse than what you see here.





It's amazing what carpet hides sometimes! Here the plumber has removed the toilet and sink and I've pulled the carpet. The top subfloor layer has rotted and will be removed and replaced.





In this photo, I've removed the top subfloor layer, shower floor tile, floor mud and enough of the shower wall tile and associated wire lathe and cement to accommodate a 7 inch wall wrap for the new shower pan liner. You can see that the lower subfloor has issues too. This was not unexpected since we had access to the crawlspace for our initial inspection.





I've removed the rotten lower subfloor 1x6 sections and nailed a piece of dead wood to an existing floor joist to support the new section.





Here you can see the new lower subfloor has been installed. It's looks much better already.





In this image, new felt has been installed over the lower subfloor.





Here, a new plywood upper subfloor has been installed over the felt.





Why did I install the 1x3 wood border? Because I wanted the plywood floor in this bathroom to be one continuous piece and couldn't get the full sheet in the bathroom otherwise. ('Twas naught for lack of trying, I assure you) See how far the right wall corner extends into the shower area? It's almost 2 inches deep (and out of square!) in that corner and the plumbing stops on the opposite wall dictate this plywood had to be over 4 inches short.





This is a Twilight Zone moment for sure; the framing is perfect, yet the tile-man built this shower VERY out of square. Here's another rarity; a hat tip to the framer from a tile installation veteran. (I should stop there, it's getting just too weird now)





In this photo, the cement board underlayment is being installed. Notice the cement seeping from under the edge of this panel? That's a 1/2 inch notched trowel applied polymer modified thin-set bed and is as it should be. By the way, that's Hardi-Backer cement board and my preferred substrate when wire lathe and cement is not a viable economic or structural option.





Yep, that's one continuous piece of plywood, alright. In hindsight, I'm not sure that structurally, it's of any relevance that it isn't in 2 pieces. It might have been stronger in 2 pieces as it would have eliminated the 1x3 border- which is a structural weakness. Weaker than a 2 piece sub-floor assembly, though? I don't know. Hell was paved with good intentions, I suppose.





The cement board undelayment has been completely installed and taped in this photo.





We see the shower pan liner pre-slope installed in this image.





New felt over the pre-slope. Why? It provides more protection for the underside of the pan liner.





New shower pan liner being fitted. This is the 40 mil liner from Oatey.





This photo shows additional weep slits I cut in the drain. This is just a back up system in case the factory weep holes in the drain assembly ever clog due to mineral deposits.





Here the new shower pan liner has been installed and we see a piece of 20# roofing felt covering the weep hole system of the drain assembly. The reasoning is that when I install the shower floor base cement, this cover keeps the sand and cement out of the weep holes.




In this photo, the cement shower floor base has been built and the curb formed and poured. Notice the liner in the curb? It's how it should be and is preferrable to a wood framed curb to me.




In this image, the form boards have been removed. When it dries, I can start the lathe and cement work on the lower shower walls. Why did I not build the lower wall substrate first? I find this procedure to be a safer method. It's kind of dumb to work on top of a new pan liner when you don't have to. 





The wire and cement wall is being built in this photo. It's amazing how dirty this part is.





In addition to the shower pan liner replacement, the budget includes replacing the original 3 handle valve with a new single handle. Here I've removed the necessary tile, cement and lathe so the plumber to proceed with the new valve installation.





Here the plumber has the new valve installed and I have the wire lathe ready for cement.





Here I've finished the cement and it will be ready for tile once it sets up a little.





And finally, the tile is installed around the new valve.





Tiled and grouted, the new valve section is finished.





The shower floor, cub and lower wall section have been tiled and this project is beginning to take shape. All that's left is the bathroom floor tile installation and grout.





Almost done. You didn't know there was this much work involved, did you?







I like photos like this one; It shows a view that we seldom see unless we're looking.





If you're still reading, thanks for making it this far.


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