What you're seeing in the image below is badly water damaged shower walls which are the result of several slow leaks. That it isn't usually obvious, is one of the biggest problems with a leaky shower. It's not uncommon that it isn't noticed until the damage is so severe that the tile is falling off the wall. Thus is the situation of the bathtub walls in this bathroom. The window above the bath tub is original to this 40 year old home and has likely leaked sporadically since the day it was installed. Slowly the substrate in this shower has gotten wet and rotted to the point that it can't be patched in a manner that assures longevity or be warranted. The walls, tile, substrate and window need to be and will be replaced.
Oddly enough, this faucet had only recently started leaking. Once it started however, it really poured! |  |
On the left you an see where the soap dish was originally installed. The soap dish falling off is one of the more common symptoms of an underlying rotten water damaged substrate issue. |  |
The area behind the toilet is bad too. |  |
In this photo you can see the demolition process has begun. The rag is tied to the spout to keep the water from dripping back behind the tub edge. Notice the mold growing in the mastic bed behind the wall tile in the middle right section of this image? Why does this happen? Tile mastic is typically classified as an "organic" adhesive and can rot. |  |
Although the existing tile was and still is manufactured by Florida Tile, the tile trim shapes (specifically the 2x6 A-4200 mudcap) necessary for the completion of this project are are no longer being produced by this company. Fortunately we were able to find a close color match in these trim shapes we needed from a competing manufacturer.
In this photo, the demolition has been completed and the plumber has installed a new valve. If you're ever going through a new shower valve replacement, this is indeed the time to do it. You can't tell from this photo but he raised the shower head by six inches. Gentlemen over 5'8" can probably relate and appreciate this. |  |
This image shows the window having been removed and the flashing and water proofing in the process of being installed. |  |
I'm not sure I'll explain this right, but the top piece of tile in this image (A) shows an industry standard mud-cap, otherwise known as an A-4200. It was originally created to accommodate the transition between a wire lath, and cement wall system, otherwise known as "mud-work" and the adjacent wall finishes. (B) When the building industry adopted less labor intensive substrate material, the mud-cap method of finish was still very much in vogue. This consumer demand required a method of utilizing that finish. The result is what you see here; a double drywall tile wall substrate. (C) |  |
In this photo, the flashing and waterproofing has been installed and I've begun the glass block installation. Notice how the roofing felt overlaps. This is an important part of the procedure. |  |
Second glass block course installed. |  |
This is a pretty good shot of the left panel anchor and reinforcing rod being installed. |  |
The right panel anchor with reinforcing rod being installed. |  |
Fourth course of glass block installed. |  |
The fifth course installed and it's almost finished. |  |
See how the window roofing felt overlaps the wall felt? Every shower should have a vapor barrier behind the wall substrate. This is the good stuff and you should accept no substitutes. |  |
The felt wraps the entire wall frame and as mentioned above, is necessary. |  |
This is 1/2 inch Hardibacker cement tile backer. It's my preferred cement board. |  |
Almost time for mesh tape and tile. |  |
In this image, the board has been taped, the tile has been installed except for the window jamb. |  |
In this image, I've begun the window jamb mud treatment. I'll be using a mud-cap finish to maintain continuity with the rest of the bathroom tile finishes. It's also true to the period, not that many people think about such things. It's still a valid point. |  |
In this photo you can sort of see what I'm doing with the cement; building a 1/2 inch riser to accommodate the mud-cap. |  |
These inside corners are no longer manufactured as far as I can find. They're easy enough to miter in the field, though I don't think they look quite as good as a real one-piece factory made inside corner. |  |
See the color variation? It's very very difficult to distinguish with the naked eye. The camera flash makes it obvious. |  |
Glass block looks awesome. When it's clean, it practically glows and made a significant difference in this bathroom presentation. |  |
This is the exterior view. |  |
You can't tell from this photo but this brick job was pretty crooked. Maybe not the worst I've seen but I'm glad it doesn't have my name on it. |  |
You can sure tell when you get a header joint view of the thing. It's probably strategically advantageous to have the up and coming apprentice crew members work in the areas that are less obvious. Like the back wall of the house as seen here. Or this was put together on a Friday or by a new hire that as supposed to know better. |  |
All done. |  |
New valve hardware. If it looks like a new shower.. that's because it is. |  |
It all turned out real good. The glass block lends itself to the period in time the home was built as well and I like it. |  |
This is the repaired wall from behind the toilet as shown from above. |  |
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