As mentioned in the relevant post from the main blogsite page, I was hired in 2010, to install 12x24 Pennsylvania Blue Stone in a running bond pattern over an existing 60 year old, painted concrete slab entry of a 1940's era home in the Greenville SC area. The environmental and economic issues associated with the removal process of the multiple layers of surface paint, made the implementation of what's known in the industry as a wire lath and mud set installation application, an attractive option. This page is a less than complete photo-commentary of that process. If you're simply interested in looking at the photos of the progress of this project, see the complete photo set here.
As previously stated, the new finish material is called Pennsylvania Blue Stone. It's a very pretty, "Made In America" natural stone that leaves little to be desired with regard to color, density, hardness and the availability of standard and custom fabricated dimensions. It's available in slabs, for counter tops, stair treads and building veneers. Readily available stone tile sizes range from 4x8, 12x12, 12x16, 12x18, 24x24, 36x36 and most dimensions in between. If you're considering purchasing this or any other stone, it's extremely important to know what you're buying and have an understanding of the gauging, culling and quality control process of the quarry or distributor you're buying from. The stone itself is wonderful, but all quarries are not created equal and never is this salient fact more apparent than AFTER the material has been delivered to your job site. For a fine must-read introduction to the gauging and culling process from a professional organization, have a look at Vieczorek Natural Stone's statement regarding this issue.
Now I don't know these guys professionally, nor am I in any way compensated for the link above or the positive statements made in this blog post about their product. I can say that the particular stone "run" delivered to my jobsite was ordered elsewhere, purchased by others and arrived in a very rough gauged, made in China sort of condition I've warned about above. The size, squareness and thickness variations ran +/- one full inch, which is excessive and completely unacceptable for a natural stone tiling product that when PROFESSIONALLY installed, is typically in a level plane with only a 1/4-1/2 inch grout joint. I had the know-how and ambition to fix it and did so, but spent oodles of time fixing it. Should the opportunity aver arise again to install this stone, I'm definitely giving Vieczorek a try.
Anyhoo....
This image shows what the project looked like my first day on the job. I've cleaned some of the loose, cracked concrete off the cold joint between the deck landing and steps to reveal that which only years of foundation settling can provide- three solid concrete steps that are tilted almost 2 inches out of level in 5 feet. Obviously, this will have to get fixed and fortunately, I know an awesome tile installation mechanic in the SC Upstate region that can and did do just that. TOOOOT! (Yes, that's my horn) |  |
After I scraped up the loose paint and cleaned the deck off, I started installing the wire lath. The overlap is 3+ inches on each sheet and all are fastened with 1" case hardened nails every 12 inches using a powder actuated fastening system. There are a few companies that make these systems including Hilti, Ramset and Remington. On a per fastener basis, this is a fairly expensive way of achieving the result I'm looking for, but it's the most expedient and convenient method, I'm aware of. |  |
Here, the stone tile is has been installed on the deck and is soon to be grouted. The perimeter of the tile field has been finished and trimmed in what's known as a soldier course pattern created in the same Blue Stone material as the field. This dresses the stone installation up considerably and is my preferred method of finishing a paver or brick shaped tile pattern installation. It looks unfinished and less aesthetically pleasing to me, otherwise. I don't know that I would go as far as quitting or getting myself fired over this issue. Fortunately and knock on wood, I've won the debate every time it comes up. Why go so far? Because it looks unfinished and makes me look lazy to finish this type of pattern in any other way. |  |
Here the stone has been grouted and it's not yet dry. You can see the broad spectrum of colors and shades that fall under the "full color" Pennsylvania Blue Stone name designation in these photographs. Though this variation isn't for everyone, I find it desirable and fairly typical of most all the natural stone installations I perform. If you dislike a varied range of colors and shades, you'll likely be better served by either a man made finish, granite or a color culled Pennsylvania Blue Stone order as provided by Vieczorek Natural Stone. Fortunately, there are some really great consistent color range options available in all three of these. |  |
This type of wire lath and mud set installation system is typically a two step application process that consists of a scratch coat and final mud setting bed "finish". In these photos, I've begun to bed the wire lath and scratch coat the steps. Tiled steps are one of the most labor intensive of the various tiling application procedures. When it's done right however, it's nothing short of the most phenomenal curb appeal investment available. A hat tip here to the real brick masons out there that do a great job on steps. I have great respect for the old timers (and anyone else) that gives a hoot about what they're doing. |  |
These are the last of the photos I have of this project. I keep meaning to get a few more, but keep forgetting my camera when I know I'll be passing by this project. Soon, maybe?
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If you made it aaaaaall the way down here, thanks for reading.
